The Rise of the French Watchmaking Renaissance
For a country renowned for haute couture, fine wine, and more Michelin stars than you can shake a baguette at, it’s always been a little curious that France has long played second fiddle to its Swiss neighbours in the world of horology. But that’s changing—and fast.
Over the past decade, a new generation of French watchmakers has quietly ushered in a renaissance that’s now impossible to ignore. Brands like YEMA, Serica, and Baltic are leading the charge, supported by a passionate domestic audience and a growing global fanbase. What we’re witnessing isn’t just a resurgence; it’s a reinvention—rooted in tradition, driven by design, and backed by an increasingly sophisticated horological infrastructure.
A Brief History of French Watchmaking (Oui, It Exists)
While Switzerland tends to dominate the headlines, France’s contributions to the history of watchmaking are significant and sometimes overlooked. The French Jura region, hugging the Swiss border, has long been a cradle of horological innovation, while Besançon—just a short hop from Geneva—emerged as the nation’s unofficial watchmaking capital in the 19th century.
In 1867, Besançon even became home to the Observatory, which issued chronometer certifications long before COSC was founded across the border. By the early 20th century, more than 90% of French timepieces were manufactured in the city, and brands like LIP and YEMA helped put French watches on the international map.
But then came the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s—and the fallout wasn’t kind to France. Factories shuttered. Talent scattered. Swiss and Japanese manufacturers surged ahead. And for decades, French watchmaking slipped into relative obscurity.
Until now.
The Fab Five: France’s Independent Heavyweights
While there are many players in this modern French revival, five brands have emerged as its clearest standard-bearers. They differ in style, philosophy, and background—but all share a commitment to French design, mechanical credibility, and horological storytelling.
YEMA: The Comeback Kid
YEMA is the closest thing French watchmaking has to a legacy brand with uninterrupted heritage. Founded in 1948 and based in Morteau (a stone’s throw from Besançon), YEMA built its name on robust tool watches like the Superman dive watch and the Rallygraf chronograph. The brand even worked with the French Air Force and Navy during its heyday.
After some dormant years under various ownership structures, YEMA has roared back under French leadership with updated reissues, in-house movements (like the YEMA2000), and partnerships with institutions like CNES (France’s NASA equivalent).
Serica: Cool by Design
Founded in 2019 by Frenchman Jérôme Burgert, Serica is an anomaly in the best way possible. It doesn’t rely on nostalgia, nor does it follow trends. Instead, it leans into pure design—distinctive, tasteful, and ever-so-slightly mysterious.
The 5303 dive watch made headlines for its lumed ceramic bezel and symmetry-obsessed dial. But it was the field-adjacent 4512 that proved Serica’s minimalist DNA could support multiple genres. Now with COSC-certified calibres and a design language all its own, Serica is proving that French watchmaking can be as forward-thinking as it is refined.
The brand just released its first collaboration with the EOD Divers Association—the new 5303 PLD Amagnetic Dive Chronometer in Geneva earlier this year, and suffice to say, it’s a stunner.
Baltic: Retro Revival, Reimagined
No discussion of the French renaissance is complete without mentioning Baltic. Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec, Baltic burst onto the scene with the Bicompax 001 and Aquascaphe—both vintage-inspired, accessibly priced, and finished to a degree that raised more than a few eyebrows.
From their charming design ethos to their preference for mechanical movements (including hand-wound Seagulls and Miyota automatics), Baltic's appeal is universal. But what’s perhaps most impressive is how the brand has expanded—from GMTs to chronographs to their latest micro-rotor MR01—without losing its identity.
Beaubleu: Horological Poetry in Motion
Founded in 2017 by designer Nicolas Ducoudert-Pham, Beaubleu is arguably the most artistic member of this French vanguard. Where others look to the past or the military for inspiration, Beaubleu finds its muse in poetry, architecture, and geometry.
Its signature flourish? Circular hands. Not skeletonized. Not leaf or baton. Fully circular hands that orbit across the dial like kinetic sculpture. It’s a bold choice, but paired with restrained case shapes and artfully balanced indices, it works—and beautifully so.
The brand’s Ecce and Seconde Française collections aren’t about brute legibility or diving specs. They’re about emotion, proportion, and the romantic side of timekeeping. Beaubleu isn’t for everyone—and that’s exactly the point.
March LA.B: Art Deco Attitude, Surf Culture Cool
Straddling the Atlantic in both identity and influence, March LA.B blends French elegance with Californian spirit. The “LA.B” stands for Los Angeles and Biarritz, where the brand draws its dual inspiration. The result is something that feels instantly stylish, subtly retro, and unmistakably cool.
March LA.B’s watches often chanel Art Deco symmetry and mid-century design cues, with small touches like green-accented crowns, asymmetrical date windows, and unique case shapes that set them apart. But what truly defines the brand is its vibe: less “tool watch” and more “timeless accessory.” These are watches that pair as well with a tailored jacket as they do with board shorts.
With Swiss movements, French assembly, and bold design language, March LA.B proves that French horology doesn’t always have to be nostalgic—it can be confident, casual, and chic.
Beyond the Five: The Next Generation
If the above brands represent the face of the French renaissance, there are many others following closely behind. Charlie Paris, for instance, balances clean design with ethical production practices and a growing catalogue of mechanical watches. LIP, one of France’s oldest names, is still producing funky, colourful watches with a cult following. And then there’s Atelier Wen (technically Franco-Chinese), and even Pequignet, which offers a rare French-made manufacture movement.
Final Thoughts: Vive la Réinvention
What makes the French watchmaking revival so compelling is not just the quality of the watches—it’s the diversity of voices behind them. Some are rooted in vintage tool watch heritage. Others are design-forward or poetic. Some are playful; others, stoic. And nearly all of them are refreshingly affordable compared to their Swiss counterparts.
It’s rare that an entire country reinvents its horological identity in real time. But France is doing just that. And whether you’re a collector, a designer, or just a curious traveller looking to bring home something other than a bottle of Bordeaux, it’s well worth keeping an eye on l’Hexagone.
Article by:
Brent Robillard
@calibre321
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